John Paul Kaminga
A Tale of Two Lambruscos
Many of you will know the wine on the left. It is a popular sparkling wine chez C&C and we often tout it as a most versatile red wine. It has a few things going for it that make it such a friendly food wine: bubbles, low-ish abv (11%), and a touch of sweetness. It is easily one of Lambrusco's best wines, but then one must consider the wine on the right, which is a special selection from the same vineyard, and is only made in the best years. Both are made from the pampered vines of Tenuta Pederzana, the leading Grasparossa specialist.
Grasparossa is one of the major grapes of Lambrusco, and it is known for making very dark wines, sometimes with considerable structure. Pederzana is helmed by Francesco Gibellini, who is dedicated to sustainable farming and wine production, and one of the few true believers in Grasparossa. We're with him, and you might be too. When's the last time you had a Lambrusco?
Tenuta Pederzana 'il Grasparossa' 2020 - $16
So many dark berries, but maybe blackberry most of all, lots of airy spice and earth, subtle flowers too. This just bursts with aroma and flavor, and on the palate soft effervescence combines with gentle tannins for a lively and engaging texture. Characterful finish features many delicate spicy, earthy and herbal tones to match the dominant dark fruit.
Tenuta Pederzana 'Puntamora' 2020 - $20
Considering that this might be the world's single most serious sparkling red wine, this is a stupendous deal. Much like its sibling, the focus here is dark berries, but there are many more earthy and herbal notes to contrast the ripe fruit. On the palate this tannic but not tough, and it is much less bubbly than the average Lambrusco. Long on flavors of black fruit and soil tones, it does not have the same easy joy as the average Lambrusco, but it is nonetheless a great pleasure to examine this wine's many quirks and intricacies. Definitely a wine for dinner.
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