John Paul Kaminga
Cru Beaujolais: Burgaud 2019
There's no better introduction to the most serious wines of Beaujolais than a bottle from Jean Marc. The price of his fabulous Cote du Py Vieilles Vignes ($20) does not immediately indicate that you're in the presence of one of the very best wines of the region (there's plenty of cru Beaujolais in the $35-50 range) but that's the case. In any vintage, Burgaud's old vines in Morgon's most famous sector, the Cote du Py, perform brilliantly, but the 2019 vintage is particularly fine. Dense, dark and ripe, with serious tannins and bright incisive acids, this wine is worth saving for 10 to 15 years, and it is arguably the single best value in Beaujolais.
With an enviable holding in the Cote du Py, where several of the region's most famous wines are made, and a large proportion of truly old vines (the average age of his vineyards is 60 years), Jean Marc was well positioned when he started his winery in 1989. He has, however, not relied on these advantages but has pushed quality forward with every vintage. He has utilized organic practices (without certification) for 10 years, and everything in the vineyard is done by hand. Intervention in the winery is kept to a minimum, with spontaneous fermentations and no additions except for minimal sulfur at bottling. The wines are gorgeous, with incredibly pure fruit signatures and complex earthy, herbal, spicy and floral nuances. It's always a joy to taste the new vintage, and it's always a wonder to consider that the prices have hardly budged over a decade. There a so very many compelling small wineries in the world, but Jean-Marc's is truly one that everyone should know, and we're thrilled to offer his 2019 vintage to you today.
Each of these wines are worthwhile, but the two from Morgon are the fullest, and the Lantignie the lightest. The Regnie occupies a middle ground, its bright and lively personality might just make it our favorite. The Cote du Py must really be counted as the star of the show, as it shows the most depth and complexity, with more weight and structure, and a long gripping finish. Consider mixing these with some of your faves to get 10% off 6 bottles or 12% off 12+ bottles of wine at our shop.
Beaujolais Villages 'Les Vignes de Lantignie' 2019 - $16
Regnie 'Vallieres' 2019 - $18
Morgon 'Grands Cras' 2019 - $19
Morgon 'Cote du Py' 2019 - $20