On-Ramp to... Germany!

Our monthly, budget-friendly 6 pack to drink your way through a region!

When German wine comes up in conversation, Americans often wrinkle their noses and say something like "oh, I don't like sweet wines", and that's just a very unfortunate reaction for a few reasons, but most of all because there's an ocean of German wine that is not remotely sweet. Talk to your average German wine drinker about what kind of wine they like, and they will mostly insist that they enjoy only very dry wines, and assure you that Germany makes all sorts of great dry wine. They are correct, of course, and for that reason this month's on-ramp is completely dry wines, designed to dispel the insidious notion that German wine is simply sweet. Just stop with that already!

...one more thing, this month's on-ramp soundtrack is clearly Kraftwerk's Autobahn. Should we always suggest an album for these monthly selections?

Hild Elbling Sekt NV (Obermosel)

Being a devotee of the odd and obscure, I can’t stop myself when it comes to extolling the virtues of arcane grape varieties such as Elbling. This grape is the polar opposite of all that is considered profound when it comes to wine. It’s not red, it’s not big and powerful, it’s not the recipient of overly wrought critical praise, and it’s most certainly not a candidate for a collector’s cellar. Rather, it’s for drinking, which is precisely what draws me to it.

Thought to be an offspring of the prolific Gouais Blanc and a long deceased wild grapevine, Elbling is certainly one of Europe’s most ancient grape varieties. Folklore holds that it was brought by the Romans to the Rhine Valley via Gaul in the 4th Century A.D. but obviously that can never be proven. The first commercial transaction of Elbling, then known as Elesser, dates back to Zurich in the late 1200’s. Its initial mention in German records is more precise: August 8, 1483. In the ensuing 540 years it has thrived in (and subsequently disappeared from) Alsace and Switzerland. While it constituted some 75% of German plantings in the 19th Century, it is now confined to a few acres of steeply terraced slopes in the Obermosel; where the Mosel becomes the Moselle, if you get what I mean. The soil here is Kimmeridgian limestone, an extension of the geological Paris Basin which runs through Sancerre, Chablis and the Cote des Bar of Champagne. It helps yield grapes imbued with chalkiness and racy acidity, attributes found in the best sparkling wines.

Matz Hild, a grower whose family was among the first to estate bottle Elbling in the 1950’s, works wonders with this endangered variety; the Elbling Whisperer, you might say. The Sekt is fermented in stainless steel and stored on its lees for up to 18 months before disgorgement. The dosage is 10-12 grams/liter, placing it firmly in the Brut range of dryness. There are flavors that taste as if they were squeezed from a lemon plucked out of an icy river. Coupled with a bright, lively jolt of acidity and low alcohol (12%), it’s mighty tough not to finish the whole bottle all at once, with or without a meal.

Elbling. Don’t forget it.

—Joe

Peter Leipold Silvaner 2024 1L (Franken)

One of Germany's most deservedly heralded young winemakers, Peter Leipold should be on your radar. He worked for Keller and Liger-Belair before returning to Franken to lead his family winery. His wines are rock solid, if not utterly brilliant. Connoisseurs are taking notice and we’re wondering when his top bottlings will suddenly be tough to find, they’re already somewhat scarce. 

Silvaner, one of the world's great underdog grapes, is the focus at Leipold, and if you think you don't need to get to know excellent Silvaner, good, more for the rest of us! Silvaner is suited to dry wine production, and in 1900 it was Germany's most widely planted grapevine. Today, Riesling is first, and Pinot Noir second, with Silvaner trailing far behind, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't sponsor it in bottle and word; try a Silvaner soon, tell your friends how good it is, come back for more. If you haven't had your Silvaner moment, get on it! 

Leipold's 1L bottling is far from the last word in complexity and intensity, it is simply fun to drink and share. It's bone-dry, with delicate green notes and immensely fresh fruitiness; unlike, say, a hulking Chardonnay, it feels like a direct connection to perfectly crisp grapes, and brings the same happy refreshment that comes from munching on them.

—JPK

Koehler Ruprecht Chardonnay Kabinett Trocken 2023 (Pfalz)

Germany’s reputation as a wine producing nation has always been synonymous with the greatness that is Riesling. Given the reverence it evokes from its devotees, it’s easy to forget that increasingly, for every hauntingly complex Riesling single, there is a worthy, terroir-laden B-side composed of Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, or Chardonnay now available in Teutonic form.

Riesling is Germany’s most populous grape variety, yet it comprises just some 23% of vineyard plantings. Chardonnay, while only about 2% of plantings, is becoming more popular with each passing year, having doubled in acreage this past decade. First authorized in 1991, many growers have embraced this Burgundian interloper as temperatures have warmed and Chardonnay, with its thicker skin, can now fully ripen in Germany during this new era of climate change. Fortunately, it’s still cool enough that the better German examples are also able to convey high acidity and subtle complexity.

Koehler-Ruprecht, an estate famed for its dry Riesling, is located in the (Rhein) Pfalz, southeast of the Mosel River, across the Vosges Mountains from Alsace. Here we have Chardonnay that is grown in a plot comprised of sandstone and chalk, is organically farmed, hand harvested, then vinified in stainless steel. There are typical varietal flavors of citrus and stone fruits, hints of saline minerality, and a creamy, enveloping texture. Dominik Sona’s deftness of touch at the controls also allows some sneaky, savory complexity to show through.

As I wrote in our 2025 year-end “best-of” list a couple of months ago, this achieves the hard to hit trifecta of simultaneously being a serious wine, a crowd pleaser, and a bargain. Enjoy!

—Joe

Gunther Steinmetz Riesling Brauneberger 2024 (Mosel)

Stefan Steinmetz is THE winemaker you need to discover, not in the Mosel, not in Germany… in the world. It says so much about the state of German wine that a winemaker of his stature makes no wine that will cost you more than $100.

Riesling is king in Brauneberg, home to Weingut Günther Steinmetz, and Stefan represents the very best of Brauneberger Riesling, but he’s also one of Germany’s most accomplished masters of Pinot Noir, and additionally makes Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, Chenin, Syrah, even Palomino, among a handful of grapes I did not recognize, you would probably have to be a German wine history scholar if they would be easy to recollect. 

Stefan's village Riesling, simply labeled ‘Brauneberger’, comes from the Mandelgraben cru, a varied slope with parts quite steep and parts rather flat. Stefan's Brauneberger comes exclusively from steep portions of the Mandelgraben, and it is commensurately serious and complex. Svelte, electric, stony; redolent of green apple, lime, grapefruit, fresh herbs, yeast and clean white smoke; bright, direct and bone-dry through the finish. Pour this for your friend who only drinks Sancerre, it's better than most $50 wines from that storied, but grossly overpriced, region, and scratches the same itch for intense acidity and distinctive minerality.

—JPK

Beurer Trollinger 2023 (Wurttemberg)

Look up Trollinger or Beurer and the word “Electric” is sure to be found. The variety of Trollinger hails from the Alto Adige of Northern Italy originally, genetically similar to Schiava before it migrated and adopted a new name in Germany’s Wurttemberg in the 14th century. Wurttemberg is now home to nearly all the acreage of Trollinger vines worldwide. Not too impressive of a feat since it only comprises approximately 5,000 hectares. Many might be surprised that in Wurttemberg, a region of Germany that sits directly North of Switzerland, is one of the few wine regions in Germany where a Non-Riesling grape outnumbers Riesling plantings. Who said Germany is all Riesling???

When farmed with reverence, as the 50+ year old vines on Beurer’s humble estate are, Trollinger is serious and incisive. With electric acidity, fresh red fruit of hibiscus, pomegranate and strawberry preserves this is downright delightful. As the winemaker is an Ex-BMX biker, comparisons are apt to the wine and a high-flying lifestyle: energetic, lively, aromatic and explosive.

—Callie

Adams Wein Ingelheim Spatburgunder Trocken 2023 (Rheinhessen)

When thinking of the great regions for Pinot Noir, we know Germany doesn’t come to your mind. But change that! Spatburgunder, or Pinot Noir, is the most planted black variety in Germany, yet most connoisseurs approach German reds with ludicrous apprehension. However, the world of vineyard management, pruning, and vinification techniques have built German Pinot Noir into something culty and enviable. Many producers have been experimenting with large oak vessels and whole bunch fermentation for easy integration of tannin and ripeness. Simone Adams uses both techniques here: Adams Wein Ingelheim Spatburgunder is 30% whole cluster and aged in 1200L vessels for 12 months.

Situated on soils of clay and weathered limestone, the Spatburgunger is a radiant expression of the Rheinhessen, a region that benefits from weather moderation by the Rhein river and the sheltering influence of the Taunus and Hunsruck mountains. Warm and dry air allows Pinot to ripen just swimmingly and the wine shows it. A beautiful throughline of acid complimented by all the spruce varieties, plump raspberries and candied cherry. This is placed in hands over and over again and returned for with the same alacrity. German Pinot is waiting for you and antiquated generalizations are holding you back!

—Callie

Since there’s always gonna be something extra that we want to include in our On Ramp selection - maybe something divisive, or sweet, or something a little too expensive - we’ll offer an add-on or two each month… This one's not included in the On Ramp pack unless you ask for it specifically.

Ansgar-Clusserath Apotheke Riesling Spatlese 2023 (Mosel)

I don’t even know where to begin with this one. Let’s just say that it’s a profound expression of Riesling, the most regal, complex, and graceful of white wine grapes. The best Rieslings are grown at some of the northernmost latitudes possible for fine wine grapes; in the Mosel, that means the vines are planted in cold-climate, slate soils which force the grapes to fight for every bit of sun-ripening grape sugar. This struggle produces a delicacy of structure and an intensity of taste that is balanced by dramatic acidity, all of which is utterly unique in the world of wine.

Originating in the Rheingau and known then as Riesslingen, Riesling was first documented on March 3, 1435 by the cellar master of Schloss Katzenelnbogen, one Klaus Kleinfisch. (Now there’s some trivia to rattle off to your wine geek friends.) Over the ensuing centuries it became revered worldwide with fantastic versions still being produced in Alsace, Austria, Australia, the Finger Lakes, the Pacific Northwest — even Tajikistan, among other places, but the sine a qua non of greatness has always been the Mosel. It was even more coveted than Bordeaux or Champagne among connoisseurs as recently as the early 20th century before sweetness became a four-letter word. A bit more on that to follow…

Ansgar-Clusserath is one of the Middle Mosel’s great estates, a family-run winery founded in the 17th century. The domaine encompasses about 13 acres, much of it in the steep, south-facing slopes of blue slate that is the Trittenheimer Apotheke. It’s now led by Eva Clusserath, one of Germany’s most brilliant young winemakers. Eva works with native yeasts, employs long fermentations, and is generally hands-off in the cellar. I tasted this at an inventory reduction event (of all places) and it immediately stirred memories of how great their 2019 Kabinett from the same vineyard was last year when we had it in the shop. Aged in a combination of stainless steel and large, neutral oak barrels, this presents delicate, luscious flavors of peach and lime. The balance is impeccable, the finish enduring. It exhibits delectable sweetness of fruit, not cloying but rather something more otherworldly. Since when is sweetness a bad thing? How is there so much substance packed into a lithe 8% abv frame? This will last for over 20 years and reveal something new every time you engage with it.

Mosel Magic. 

—Joe

Loersch Riesling Apotheke GG 'Devon-Terrassen' 2023

The Mosel is a special place for wine. There are famous vineyard sites and big-name producers, and you might keep an eye out for both, but in addition to the establishment there's an upwelling of new talent that cannot be ignored. One of the first names you should remember in this group is Loersch.

Thanks to the hard work of Alexander Loersch, his family's wines have emerged in just a few short years as some of the best in the Mosel today. We were the first merchant in the country to offer them, and we always keep a few around, but we don't always have one of their fantastic GG wines.

GG stands for Grosses Gewachs, which is the German equivalent of Grand Cru, but unlike France's Grand Cru wines, which have been recognized for hundreds of years, GG wines have only been labeled and promoted since 2002, when 78 wineries showed GG wines from the 2001 vintage. GG vineyards are invariably historic sites with established "grand cru" reputations, the new GG designation was simply a way to group together dry wines from these places. Is is a perfect system? No, but to some degree it has worked, as part of the idea was to bring greater recognition to dry German wine, and today there are GGs that trounce French Grand Crus in the marketplace. More than 20 years on, the GG scene is probably not quite mature, but it is dynamic and impactful, and you will find many wine collectors excited to drink and collect GG wines, even if they aren't too excited about the ever-rising prices. Loersch isn't there yet, thankfully, which means we present you with a top tier dry German Riesling at a nice low price.

Apotheke is a large cru, and Loersch made three GGs from it in 2023. Their Devon-Terrassen comes from old vines (60-100 years old) in two sectors, Vogelsang and Kaulsbohr. It's intense and bold, highly aromatic, deep and incisive, long and complex, it's everything we want in a Riesling GG, and it's less than half the price we would usually expect such a wine to cost. Factor in the on-ramp discount, and you're looking at quite the GG value. 

—JPK

Keller Rieslaner Auslese 2022 375ml

It would not be a stretch to say that Keller is the single most famous winery in Germany today. They are focused on dry wines, and it is their phenomenally complex, and expensive, GG Rieslings that drive the Keller fervor. Sweet wines from Keller are pretty rare, making this Rieslaner Auslese a very special treat. 

—JPK

Saalwachter Spatburgunder 'Alte Reben' 2021

Carsten Saalwachter's wines are not chased like Keller, but he's only been at it since 2018, whereas Klaus Peter Keller took over his family winery in 2001. Similarly, both wineries do not see much of their wine landing in MA, and we don't say no to bottles from either of them. Saalwachter is a Pinot Noir specialist, which makes a lot of sense, as their vines are in Assmannshausen and Ingelheim, Germany's two most historic bastions of great Pinot Noir, the first plantings dating back to the 8th century when Charlemagne, a big fan Burgundy, encouraged adoption of Burgundy varieties. Along with Simone Adams (see Callie's words above), Carsten Saalwachter is making the finest Pinots in Ingelheim, and this Alte Reben comes from his oldest vines in the comune. Want to embarass a 1er cru red Burgundy? This little beauty might easily pull it off.

—JPK