John Paul Kaminga
Spanish Wine Values
Updated: Feb 25, 2022
Already affected by the round of wine tariffs instituted in October, Spanish wine still represents some of the world's finest values in a bottle. Here's a couple of eclectic whites and two distinctly different reds, offering a quick snapshot of the immense tapestry that is Spanish wine.
Celler Credo 'Miranius' 2018
A biodynamic still Xarello from what many consider to be the single greatest producer of Cava. This is a new vintage, and the price went down? Very exciting...
Valdespino 'Ojo de Gallo' 2016
An unfortified Palomino from what many consider to be the very best producer of Sherry. Dry, crisp, mineral and full of intriguing umami notes, this stuff is very cool and extraordinarily reasonable in price. It is a bit of an experiment and could be offered for double the money yet still be compelling.
Bodegas Frontonio Campo de Borja 'El Casetero' 2018
Fresh and lively isn't always what one might expect from inexpensive Spanish Garnacha; the category is awash in acid-deficient pruney libations, so one might be wary. This gorgeous Garnacha is made with a selection of the best fruit from high elevation vineyards controlled by a local cooperative of Campo de Borja. It is simply fabulous, with classic notes of kirsch, wild berries, rosehips, anise and herbs, and a juicy palate accented fruit skin and pith flavors and pleasant bitter herbal nuances.
Mas Marer Monsant 2017
This pup went up a buck, but it's still a steal. Opulent and resonant, with tons of dark fruit and exotic spice notes, it is a heavier style compared to the wine above, but it is nonetheless fresh and food friendly. This is full enough to please a Cabernet devotee, but try finding Cab at this level for this kind of money...