The most underrated winemaker in the Cote de Nuits? I'd put Fournier up there - what he does with modest holdings often makes me wonder what he'd be capable of with a raft of Grand Crus. Prices remain cheaper than many, and I cannot recommend these wines highly enough.
- Neal Martin, Vinous Media, 11/22
I had some quick but illuminating tastes from Jean Fournier today, and I wholeheartedly agree with the assessment quoted above. These are fabulous Burgundies, and very nicely priced considering what's going on in the region. We're always on the hunt for delicious Burgundy that won't break the bank, and today found us a fine catch in Marsannay.
There are no premier or grand crus in Marsannay, but ask a savvy connoisseur and they should mention a few notable crus including the Clos du Roy and Longeroies. Look to the top of this message for a map of Fournier's holdings in Longeroies, where their oldest Pinot vines live, and where they source grapes from no less than 8 parcels*. Today's tastes were all from worthwhile bottlings, but I've distilled three cuvees from the selections tasted. Out of these three, I'm sure that the Longeroies is my first pick; it is a wine I would hoard and expect dividends from in time.
I will note that all of these wines are from the extraordinarily difficult 2021 vintage, and serve as a most poignant illustration that Fournier performs at a very high level. I have a feeling that 2021 Burgundy is gonna be a big deal one day, as there's just not a lot of it, and it sticks out stylistically in comparison to surrounding vintages. If you take good care of some 2021 Clos du Roy and Longeroies, I'm quite sure you'll have some special Pinot on your hands in about 5 to 7 years.
Jean Fournier Bourgogne Cote d'Or 2021 - $35
Aromas of cranberry and crunchy blackberry, pine forest, whispers of tobacco and dried flowers. Tense and vibrant on the palate, beautiful mix of earth, forest and fruit flavors. Drink now and over the next few years.
Jean Fournier Marsannay 'Longeroies' 2021 - $60
Smokin' Marsannay, this is just fabulous, so lifted and fresh on the nose. Aromas of wild blueberry, crunchy cherry, blackberry, rose and iris, pine forest and raw cacao... Medium-bodied and silky, very fine tannins lend texture, acids lend freshness and brightness, this is tense and densely packed but also quite elegant. Long and complex finish; fruit, tannins and acidity are all in balance. This will need at least a few years to really unfold, but in a big Pinot glass** it is singing today. Should be worth following a decade or so.
Jean Fournier Marsannay 'Clos du Roy' 2021 - $60
High toned and herbal, bright citrus tones provide nice contrast to the black and blue fruit, flowers and spice flit about as well. Medium-bodied and silky on the palate, like the Longeroies it is tense and dense, but it is a little surly in comparison. Long and mineral finish, less fruity than the Longeroies, but long and complex nonetheless. I could see this improving a lot over the next 5 to 10 years, but today I prefer Longeroies.
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*looks to be a very complete blend of this cru, a bit from each sector, and it shows in the finished wine, which is poised and balanced
**glassware is the most important wine accessory, but perhaps we should say necessity... get some good glasses, just for you, don't let your friends use (read: break) them