Proselytizing @craftandcru: Chidaine Clos du Breuil
It was Chenin Blanc that many years ago convinced me I loved white wine as well as red. I wish I could say that a Chidaine was responsible for my conversion (it was a Baumard Clos du Papillon), but the glories of Francois Chidaine were soon thereafter imprinted on me, and I have long sung their praises. Francois Chidaine makes some of the best white wines in the world, full stop. Now look at his prices and tell me you shouldn't be stocking up.
A farmer first, Francois farms according to biodynamic methods, with the health of his soils and vines as the foundation to growing great grapes. Intervention in the winery is minimal and every year he bottles several crus; the point is to let the assertive character of Chenin Blanc shine through the lens of terroir. He also lets the yeasts ferment as they see fit, resulting in wines both sweet and dry. Clos du Breuil is routinely one his driest, though it hardly skimps on ripe juiciness in a vintage like 2019. This is a wine that should excite even the most jaded red-only drinker. Force it upon someone.... just kidding!
Francois Chidaine Montlouis 'Clos du Breuil' 2019 - $35
Kaleidoscopic stuff, it just keeps changing, this is brilliant Chenin. Aromas of dried herbs, tangerine and lime, perfect green pear, quince, mango, passionfruit, yellow cherry, almond and pistachio oils, a little petrichor and a classic whisper of wet wool. The palate is equally dense and complex, but immensely refreshing and brisk at the same time: chalky and silky waves coat the palate while vivacious acids cleanse and cut, and ever-present fruit wends its way through the fray. The finish is extraordinary; the procession of intense fresh fruit notes fading into delicate herbal, floral and mineral flavors is stunning; delicate tannins allied with incisive acids carry complex flavors very long. This is certainly ready to go, but will just get more interesting for 5 to 10 years, maybe longer.
Buy 6 of these and we'll knock 15% off your order.
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