"If the 2017 vintage in Burgundy has a defect, it's that the wines can be rather facile and immediate; but that is emphatically not the case chez Dureuil-Janthial, as these whites and reds are serious and tightly wound, built for the cellar. Indeed, this is quite simply the finest set of young wines that I have ever tasted from Dureuil, and I couldn't recommend them more emphatically."
-William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
We've said it before, and we'll say it again. What matters most are the people who make your wine. Terroir is important, vintage makes a difference, but more than anything else, you should be paying attention to the producer.
Vincent Dureuil is one of Burgundy's best farmers and winemakers, and his family's label, Dureuil-Janthial, should be considered one of the region's great names. If they were based in the Cote d'Or, instead of the Cote Chalonnaise, their wines would be far more expensive and difficult to acquire. As it is, bottles become more and more scarce each year. Fame may come a little slower in Rully than in Vosne, but Vincent's reputation is ever ascendant, and anyone who loves fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir should be paying close attention.
Committed to organic farming, low yields, intense vineyard management, careful sorting of fruit, and meticulous cellar work, Vincent Dureuil's wines are made with extraordinary care. Many a more expensive bottle does not see the same work and dedication as even the most inexpensive Dureuil-Janthial. Another factor contributing to the quality of Vincent's wines is old vines. The biotypes found in old vineyards are genetically diverse, and distinct from modern clones. Old vines also ripen more reliably, withstand hot vintages better, and generally make more complex and concentrated wines. Old vines not only contribute to the quality of a finished wine, but also preserve both agricultural heritage and valuable genetic material for the isolation of new clones. Both of the wines that we offer today come from pre-clonal vineyards. I tasted the Mercurey recently, and it was fabulous. I will get around to the Rully Chapitre very soon, but I can already assure you that it is the more complex and serious wine.
Dureuil-Janthial Mercurey 2017 - $45
From vines planted in 1965 in the Les Doués lieu dit. Spicy and expressive. Aromas of red fruit distillates, dark cherry, a little dried cranberry and dried orange peel, cedar, hickory, white pepper, mace, cola.... fresh and savory on the palate, a meaty note comes through, medium-bodied, concentrated spicy flavors, open-knit and ready to go. Spicy, meaty and woodsy finish, notes of tamarind, beef jerky, cola, tangy fruits. I have to imagine this is pretty much mature, but it will motor nicely for another 3 to 5, at least.
Dureuil-Janthial Rully 1er cru Chapitre 2017 - $50
From vines planted in 1958. This will be more structured than the Mercurey, with greater depth of fruit and a lot more potential in the cellar.
Order 2 bottles of Dureuil-Janthial red wine, and we will knock 10% off your order. Make it a 6-pack and we'll take 15% off.
Please send an email to orders@craftandcru.com to place your orders or inquiries.
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