Best in Class: Fratelli Alessandria Barolo 2017
Above we see a nice aerial shot from just behind the winery of Fratelli Alessandria. We're looking pretty much due south, and if you were in the grove of trees just to the left of the tower in the center of the picture, you would be perched in the town of Verduno looking out over an expansive portion of the Barolo DOCG.
The northernmost commune in Barolo, and also one of the smallest, Verduno is home to two towering giants of Barolo wineries; giants not for amounts of wine, but for a long and consistent history of extraordinary quality. Fratelli Alessandria and Burlotto are these two wineries. They rank among Barolo's elite producers, and though every wine made by these two is a testament to their dedication to quality, their status must be attributed in no small part to their iconic bottlings of the great Monvigliero cru.
Try to get a bottle of Burlotto Monvigliero for a reasonable price. I can't help, but I wish you luck. I can, however, offer a wine of equal stature: Fratelli Alessandria Monvigliero.
Every bottle of Fratelli Alessandria Barolo is allocated. We get what we get and there will not be more. At Craft and Cru we feel very fortunate to have these wines around and recommending them comes very easily. We can be confident that what we're putting into your hands not only deserves the lofty reputation of Barolo, but also represents the best the region has to offer. The recipe seems simple — privileged crus, careful organic farming, minimally manipulative winemaking, bottling at a moment when fruit is fresh and vibrant — but the result is much more than the sum of these parts. Fratelli Alessandria makes some of Barolo's most supple and gracious wines, and it is no surprise that their wines become more an more sought after with every passing year.
I drank a 2017 Barolo del Comune di Verduno the other day, and it was just wailing. The 2017 vintage was warm and dry, and the best wines will probably never shut down. I can't wait to try the Monvigliero... maybe for Christmas dinner? Anyway, I'll paste my note on the Verduno below, and I'll make a special offer as well. Check 'em out per favore!
2017 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo del Comune di Verduno - $55
Barolo bomb right here, this is exploding right now, and I don't think it'll close down either. The nose is so lifted and rich, focused on licorice, red roses, sweet cherry and ripe plum, but there's myriad aromatic nuance in the form of cedar, tobacco, mace, cinnamon, roasted meat, dried mushrooms, parsnips, camphor, menthol... Dense and full-bodied, classically firm and burly, but the tannins are quite fine, and though the fruit has subtle cooked and candied qualities it is overall very fresh in character. Long finish is warm and spicy, quite floral, and very fruity, with fresh juice and hard candy notes resonating together beautifully. This will improve for at least a decade, but will probably plateau on the early side for a Fratelli Alessandria.
2017 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Gramolere - $76
2017 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo San Lorenzo - $73
2017 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero - $94
If you buy 2 bottles of any Fratelli Alessandria Barolo, we'll knock 10% off your order, or mix 6 bottles and we'll make it 15% off.
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