Old Vine Burgundy: Goisot Les Mazelots
If you're into Burgundy, you know that the world just can't get enough. Price and availability are going in opposite directions, and I think you can guess which way for each. Finding "value" is possible, but you have to look outside the big-name villages (Gevrey, Chambolle, Vosne...) and that's where we're headed today.
The commune of Irancy is quite a bit north and west of the center of Pinot Noir production in Burgundy, sitting just south of Chablis in an area mostly known for whites. Goisot is a certfied organic and biodynamic grower, and given their location it is no surprise that they are best known for white wine, their Sauvignons* being perhaps their most iconic bottlings. They do, however, make excellent Pinot Noir that is well worth seeking out.
I bought a fair amount of very tasty Goisot Pinot on closeout about 10 years ago. At that time, I asked about upcoming vintages, which I would have been happy to explore at full price, and the importer all but assured me that they would not bring Goisot's Pinots back, as they were too difficult to sell. When I saw that they brought them back late last year, I was THRILLED, and immediately bought a bit of Les Mazelots, a bottling from old vines (up to 100 years-old), from what may be the best cru in Irancy. I was not disappointed, in fact I was elated, and have now had two bottles. That doesn't sound like much, but there are always so many new wines to try, and I do not often choose to drink the same bottle within the span of just a couple months.
Long story short, this is a superb bottle of Burgundy, as well as a superb value. If it was from the Cote d'Or it would easily be twice the price.
Goisot Irancy 'Les Mazelots' 2019 - $40
Bold and open-knit, this is pretty much ready to go. Aromas of elderberry, blackberry, black cherry, blue plum distillate, this focused on beautiful fruit notes, but there's plenty of non-fruit nuance in the form of seabreeze, toasted nuts, raw cacao, roses, wild mint and pine forest. Bold and juicy on the palate, gorgeous inner perfume of rose and iris, grippy tannins, pleasant fruit skin bitterness. Long finish features intense dark fruit accented by flowers, oak spice and a touch of raw beef. This will develop for many years, but it's easy-going already.
As always, this wine will mix and match with other wines to receive 10% off 6 bottles, or 12% off 12 bottles. Please send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org to place your orders or inquiries.
* there is Sauvignon in Burgundy, it's called St. Bris, and it sits on the same geologic formation that informs one of the major soils of Sancerre, so suddenly it all makes sense, right?